Saturday, August 30, 2008

Athens for a Day

Faviana, the baby and I had reached our cousin Annoula's house at 9 pm. She waited for me at Γαλατσιου and she then directed me to her Dad's house. Αντωνη unpacked the car of the numerous organic Tinian meats and vegies that my Dad sent for the relatives. Then we went back to Anna's, unpacked the luggage and Αντωνη took the car to park it by his house.

The next morning Anna drove us to the train station on her way to work and at 8 am Faviana, the baby and I took the train to Monastiraki. We slowly made our way up cobblestoned pedestrian-only Ermou Street. There was so much to see for a little girl of six. She loved the little church in Monastiraki. She went in and lit a candle and walked around. Faviana was deeply impressed by one beggar who only had stumps for legs. She kept asking me if I saw him. There was a six piece band playing waltzes and tangos. I felt like I was in Liepzig, Germany for a moment where hearing violins and cellos playing on the street is the norm. Oh look, a moving statue. We heard two little boys playing baglamas and singing rembetika. There was also a laterna on another corner. Faviana walked around it several times listening to the tinny music box notes. Then Syntagma square, Syntagma station with its museum-like gallery on the mid level, and then the Evzones.

We walked through pigeons at the tomb of the unknown soldier and walked with Evzones from the Vouli to the square for the guard change. Faviana watched the ceremonial guard change with deep interest. She walked out of the square like an Evzona and we made our way back down Ermou. We took the train back to Eirini station where Anna picked us up on her way back from work. She asked us where we went and was a little surprised that we can spend so many hours on just one little street....

We spent the rest of the day with Anna at her house and it was so nice to catch up with her. She's moved out of her parents and has her own place. Quite an independant move for a Greek person. Most single Greek people continue to live with their parents. She's making it on her own!

We caught a few hours sleep, a quick ride to the airport and then onwards to America.

Leaving Tinos

The port in Tinos was frenzy with activity on Wednesday. Lines of cars lined the port and the masses waited in line in the cement cagey-looking building to board the numerous boats that were coming in and out of the harbour. Within the span of minutes Penelope docks, Highspeed 2 docks, Penelope disembarks passengers, Highspeed 2 passengers disembarking have to avoid the people running to embark Penelope. Penelope begins to leave as the Superferry is turning around to dock.

I was first in the line of cars for the Superferry. I kiss my Dad goodbye and hug him. It's the first time I am reduced to tears. I don't like to say goodbye to him. It still seems unreal that we are leaving. Did three months go by that fast?

We wait for the passengers and cars to disembark, then the people embark and then the line of cars is let in. I parked the car on the top level, took the kids out of the car and walked up. The Superferry was full of passengers. People were camped out everywhere. I walked up another deck looking for a place to sit with the baby and Faviana. Eventually, I had to ask a woman to give up the three seats she was sleeping on and just occupy one so that we can sit. She got huffy about it but I didn't really care. I wasn't about to stand for what turned out to be five and a half hours.

The boat ride was ok. The boat swayed from side to side but that didn't really affect anyone (thankfully we weren't on the SeaJet). Faviana worked on a book of puzzles. The person who seemed most affected to leave Tinos was the baby. She absolutely howled. She didn't want to leave Παππου and she didn't want to leave the island. (She's still unhappy 2 days later.)

The ding-dong announcement comes on. All drivers to the cars. We will reach Rafina in just a few moment. I pick up our things, carry the now sleeping baby and ask Faviana to stay by me. We reach the parking deck only to see that the cars are packed tighter than a can of sardines. Although the car is in the first lane, five cars ahead of the door, I cannot carry the baby to the car. I have to weave in and out between the tiny spaces left between the bumpers and make a large loop around just to reach the car. The cars are primarily SUVs and although it was difficult I had to lift the baby in the car seat above my head with one hand, carry the things in the other and continually tell Faviana to follow me even though she it tiny enough to fit through and go straight to the car.

We reach the car to realize that only Faviana can fit in through the tiny space that's left between the cars. The baby and I stay by the boot of the car and we have to wait. The lower level of cars go out first. Then, our level starts to move! My car was parked on the ramp and the ramp begins to descend. I watched Faviana and hoped that the brakes hold and that Faviana doesn't take it out of first gear. Luckily, she sits quietly in the back seat watching us. As soon as the cars start to move, the guy behind me to the right gives me time to put the baby in the car and get in before he takes off. And we're off to drive in Athens.....

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Last night in Aetofolia

Tonight is our last night in Aetofolia. Tomorrow we leave at 2:30 on the Superferry. The television is tuned to Tinos TV and I can hear 'nisiotika' island music from the artichoke festival that happened earlier this year.

Today we had an adventure. We went visiting to so many places in Tinos that I have never been to before. Originally we started out to go to the fantastic marble museum outside of Pirgos. However, we got there and the parking lot was gated. The museum is closed on Tuesdays. Oops. So we went to Pirgos instead and walked around. Normally, I just walk to the square and have a coffee and leave. Today we explored all the side streets. There's a bakery. There's a huge sculpture of Dionysus's head. There's beautiful marble houses and marble sculpted door frames. Who knew? Certainly not me.

After Pirgos, I would normally go to Panormos. But not today, we stopped by the supermarket. (Oh, yeah, there's also a supermarket) and picked up drinks and meats and cheeses and melons and grapes to go along with the bread we already picked up from the bakery. Then we headed off for a picnic.

We took the road past Marlas, then the paved road ended, and we continued on the dirt road past quarries, there was nothing in sight for a long while. We kept driving and stopping periodically to get a fix on where we were going. Then, a wondrous sight! A town at the edge of nowhere. Koymelas, the sign said. There was a church and houses built on top of cliffs and boulders jutting out to the sea. But we did not stop here because, well, the road kept going. We stopped at the end of the road -- at Mali.

This little town was the end of the road. And it was beautiful. It has a pebbly beach and houses built around the bay on the boulders themselves. It was a sight to be seen and unfortunately for me, the battery on my Nikon died today. I could take no pictures...

We had a great picnic on the beach and I put my suit on and went for a snorkel. It was amazing. I thought I was swimming in the Caribbean. The water laps on to stone. I got in to my knees, put my mask on, and dipped in. The stone drops quick and then I felt like I was in a lagoon. The fish had colors here and they seemed to be of a different variety than Kolymbithra. There were also different plants growing on the rocks. Some looked like tumbleweed. Others looked like green grass. There were delicate, wispish shrubs on the stones and tall, hardy weeds on an underwater boulder. The seabed did not have sand wrinkles like Kolymbithra but little pockmarks, like a teenager after a bout of bad acne. There was no one else in the water but as I was getting out, a dog was getting in for a swim. Terrified, I stood five feet away from the beach wondering, do I go back in for a swim or go out past the dog. I swallowed my fear and went out. The picnic was great.

On the way back we stopped at a small oasis in the hot dry landscape. This place had big leafy trees and ice cold refreshing mountain water. I never knew this place existed. What an amazing last day on the island.

The festial music ended but I now have the music of caterwauling cats! The wind has picked up again and it's cold and breezy. The moon is waning and it's a black blanket in front of me. The mountains are undiscernable from the sky. Goodnight balcony. Goodbye Aetofolia!