Athens for a Day

Faviana, the baby and I had reached our cousin Annoula's house at 9 pm. She waited for me at Γαλατσιου and she then directed me to her Dad's house. Αντωνη unpacked the car of the numerous organic Tinian meats and vegies that my Dad sent for the relatives. Then we went back to Anna's, unpacked the luggage and Αντωνη took the car to park it by his house.

The next morning Anna drove us to the train station on her way to work and at 8 am Faviana, the baby and I took the train to Monastiraki. We slowly made our way up cobblestoned pedestrian-only Ermou Street. There was so much to see for a little girl of six. She loved the little church in Monastiraki. She went in and lit a candle and walked around. Faviana was deeply impressed by one beggar who only had stumps for legs. She kept asking me if I saw him. There was a six piece band playing waltzes and tangos. I felt like I was in Liepzig, Germany for a moment where hearing violins and cellos playing on the street is the norm. Oh look, a moving statue. We heard two little boys playing baglamas and singing rembetika. There was also a laterna on another corner. Faviana walked around it several times listening to the tinny music box notes. Then Syntagma square, Syntagma station with its museum-like gallery on the mid level, and then the Evzones.

We walked through pigeons at the tomb of the unknown soldier and walked with Evzones from the Vouli to the square for the guard change. Faviana watched the ceremonial guard change with deep interest. She walked out of the square like an Evzona and we made our way back down Ermou. We took the train back to Eirini station where Anna picked us up on her way back from work. She asked us where we went and was a little surprised that we can spend so many hours on just one little street....

We spent the rest of the day with Anna at her house and it was so nice to catch up with her. She's moved out of her parents and has her own place. Quite an independant move for a Greek person. Most single Greek people continue to live with their parents. She's making it on her own!

We caught a few hours sleep, a quick ride to the airport and then onwards to America.

Leaving Tinos

The port in Tinos was frenzy with activity on Wednesday. Lines of cars lined the port and the masses waited in line in the cement cagey-looking building to board the numerous boats that were coming in and out of the harbour. Within the span of minutes Penelope docks, Highspeed 2 docks, Penelope disembarks passengers, Highspeed 2 passengers disembarking have to avoid the people running to embark Penelope. Penelope begins to leave as the Superferry is turning around to dock.

I was first in the line of cars for the Superferry. I kiss my Dad goodbye and hug him. It's the first time I am reduced to tears. I don't like to say goodbye to him. It still seems unreal that we are leaving. Did three months go by that fast?

We wait for the passengers and cars to disembark, then the people embark and then the line of cars is let in. I parked the car on the top level, took the kids out of the car and walked up. The Superferry was full of passengers. People were camped out everywhere. I walked up another deck looking for a place to sit with the baby and Faviana. Eventually, I had to ask a woman to give up the three seats she was sleeping on and just occupy one so that we can sit. She got huffy about it but I didn't really care. I wasn't about to stand for what turned out to be five and a half hours.

The boat ride was ok. The boat swayed from side to side but that didn't really affect anyone (thankfully we weren't on the SeaJet). Faviana worked on a book of puzzles. The person who seemed most affected to leave Tinos was the baby. She absolutely howled. She didn't want to leave Παππου and she didn't want to leave the island. (She's still unhappy 2 days later.)

The ding-dong announcement comes on. All drivers to the cars. We will reach Rafina in just a few moment. I pick up our things, carry the now sleeping baby and ask Faviana to stay by me. We reach the parking deck only to see that the cars are packed tighter than a can of sardines. Although the car is in the first lane, five cars ahead of the door, I cannot carry the baby to the car. I have to weave in and out between the tiny spaces left between the bumpers and make a large loop around just to reach the car. The cars are primarily SUVs and although it was difficult I had to lift the baby in the car seat above my head with one hand, carry the things in the other and continually tell Faviana to follow me even though she it tiny enough to fit through and go straight to the car.

We reach the car to realize that only Faviana can fit in through the tiny space that's left between the cars. The baby and I stay by the boot of the car and we have to wait. The lower level of cars go out first. Then, our level starts to move! My car was parked on the ramp and the ramp begins to descend. I watched Faviana and hoped that the brakes hold and that Faviana doesn't take it out of first gear. Luckily, she sits quietly in the back seat watching us. As soon as the cars start to move, the guy behind me to the right gives me time to put the baby in the car and get in before he takes off. And we're off to drive in Athens.....

Last night in Aetofolia

Tonight is our last night in Aetofolia. Tomorrow we leave at 2:30 on the Superferry. The television is tuned to Tinos TV and I can hear 'nisiotika' island music from the artichoke festival that happened earlier this year.

Today we had an adventure. We went visiting to so many places in Tinos that I have never been to before. Originally we started out to go to the fantastic marble museum outside of Pirgos. However, we got there and the parking lot was gated. The museum is closed on Tuesdays. Oops. So we went to Pirgos instead and walked around. Normally, I just walk to the square and have a coffee and leave. Today we explored all the side streets. There's a bakery. There's a huge sculpture of Dionysus's head. There's beautiful marble houses and marble sculpted door frames. Who knew? Certainly not me.

After Pirgos, I would normally go to Panormos. But not today, we stopped by the supermarket. (Oh, yeah, there's also a supermarket) and picked up drinks and meats and cheeses and melons and grapes to go along with the bread we already picked up from the bakery. Then we headed off for a picnic.

We took the road past Marlas, then the paved road ended, and we continued on the dirt road past quarries, there was nothing in sight for a long while. We kept driving and stopping periodically to get a fix on where we were going. Then, a wondrous sight! A town at the edge of nowhere. Koymelas, the sign said. There was a church and houses built on top of cliffs and boulders jutting out to the sea. But we did not stop here because, well, the road kept going. We stopped at the end of the road -- at Mali.

This little town was the end of the road. And it was beautiful. It has a pebbly beach and houses built around the bay on the boulders themselves. It was a sight to be seen and unfortunately for me, the battery on my Nikon died today. I could take no pictures...

We had a great picnic on the beach and I put my suit on and went for a snorkel. It was amazing. I thought I was swimming in the Caribbean. The water laps on to stone. I got in to my knees, put my mask on, and dipped in. The stone drops quick and then I felt like I was in a lagoon. The fish had colors here and they seemed to be of a different variety than Kolymbithra. There were also different plants growing on the rocks. Some looked like tumbleweed. Others looked like green grass. There were delicate, wispish shrubs on the stones and tall, hardy weeds on an underwater boulder. The seabed did not have sand wrinkles like Kolymbithra but little pockmarks, like a teenager after a bout of bad acne. There was no one else in the water but as I was getting out, a dog was getting in for a swim. Terrified, I stood five feet away from the beach wondering, do I go back in for a swim or go out past the dog. I swallowed my fear and went out. The picnic was great.

On the way back we stopped at a small oasis in the hot dry landscape. This place had big leafy trees and ice cold refreshing mountain water. I never knew this place existed. What an amazing last day on the island.

The festial music ended but I now have the music of caterwauling cats! The wind has picked up again and it's cold and breezy. The moon is waning and it's a black blanket in front of me. The mountains are undiscernable from the sky. Goodnight balcony. Goodbye Aetofolia!

Goats

Faviana, the Baby, Dad and I went in search of goats. We drove out to Chalakia, past Pippino's house and continued the dirt road half way down. We met with Ameralis, who had already parked his truck. He stepped out on to a rock outcrop and bellowed, "Ελα, Καλλως Τα!" (Come, Welcome!) The goats did not need a second call. They started running from everywhere. Little goats were skipping down the road, bigger goats were jumping from the stone walls. Goats that were down the mountain, came up. Goats that were up the mountain, came down. Within minutes, about a hundred goat had surrounded us. Ameralis pulls a small white sack out of his truck and starts to walk down a ways, to his land. There he starts to toss corn kernels to the sheep. Faviana even tossed kernels to the sheep. She had a small ceramic plate and was meting it out. One goat didn't want to wait and nudged her then licked her hand. She tossed the entire plate of kernels on the ground and cried out for help as the goats surrounded her to gobble up their snack.

Once the feeding frenzy had ended, we stopped to admire the location. It was high up the mountain and there was a great view of Panormos and the light house, of Andros and of the perimeter view of the island. The sun set while we were there and there were pink and orange hues on the mountains. Then the stars started to peek out one by one. It was a meditative quiet there and I quite liked the location to build a summer house - the kind without electricity or running water but with all the spiritual amenitites.

We walked away from the goats and they all stopped and stared at us as we left. They stood stock still. All of them in the herd. They stopped what they were doing and stared. I think they were saying 'goodbye' but odds are they were just waiting for more food....

Last days of August

I sit on the balcony listening to the hum of the refrigerator inside. Not a leaf is stirring outside. It is so quiet I can almost slice the silence with a knife. August had been so full of life in the village. There was constant chatter from the balconies and screams from children playing. Now, it's just the silence.

Yesterday and today have been two of the best beach days of the summer. Yesterday, I found a lounge chair no problem in the front row. Today, the entire back row was empty. I drove to the very end of the road by Drakonisi tavern and there was plenty of parking. Simply unheard of in the height of August!

Warm breezy night

The warm breeze that has just picked up signifies the end of my dreams for a perfect beach day tomorrow. It is a little past midnight and up until now, not a leaf was stirring. The mosquitoes were out in swarms and every house soon withdrew from their balconies and moved inside. Click, clack, the sound of doors closing.

Today was a perfect beach day. I went to Kolymbithra with the girls. Faviana played in the water for hours. However the baby soon got cold in the water and she and I sat out the rest of the day on the beach. We rented a beach chair/umbrella (for 3,5 euro) and enjoyed watching the children swim in the water. The water was so still it looked like you could walk on it. It is so rare to see it so calm. I was hoping tomorrow for another one of these so that maybe Dad would come to the beach but I think it's back to waves and undertows.

We are counting down the hours now. We leave 2:30 Wednesday with the Superferry. I can't believe that three months went by so fast....

In Memory

Stasso was a very beautiful woman in her advanced years so I can only imagine her in the bloom of youth. Listening in to conversation of her, she was called the Βασίλισσα, the Queen, due to her beauty and stateliness. She would go into the village and have worn different outfits in the morning and afternoon. I only knew her as a grandmother and beyond and I knew her beauty of spirit. She always spoke in soft tones and was so hospitable and caring.

They could not transport her to the island yesterday so she arrived by boat at 11 am this morning. The funeral service started at 12:30 pm. Family had come in from Athens and the church overflowed with visitors and villagers there to mourn and console. The sun was hot and bore down on all the people in the courtyard and on the street. I sat in the corner in the shade with the baby. Faviana sat on the steps. The service ended and the priests, still chanting, draped in purple and bearing gold crosses exited the church. The casket followed held up by six pall bearers, then family and friends. Down the lane, past the Kato Horio, out to the road and straight to the cemetary. The casket was placed down and the priests finished up their prayers. The casket was opened and the loved ones said their goodbyes amongst tears. Whoever did not fit in the tiny cemetary remained on the road. Slowly, the cemetary emptied of the bereaved and the family began to serve the guests. Men came by with raki and wine and little plastic white cups. The women came by with platters one by one of baccalliaro, meatballs, cheese, salami, breads and cheesepies. While the mourners ate and chatted, the deceased was placed in the ground.

The catholics here have the custom of taking the deceased out of the coffin and laying them in the underground crypt with a pillow. It is only after a certain amount of years have passed AND the crypt being in need again, that they crypt is reopened and the bones taken out, washed in wine, placed in a white pillowcase and then in a small box and then sealed in the wall of the cemetary. In the olden times, the underground crypt was actually under the church. The bones were never taken out but instead someone would get in and step them underfoot so that the next person could fit. There was only one wooden casket that the villagers would use to take the body from the home to the cemetary and it was used for every burial. That casket is still in the little church in the cemetary. The wooden frame is painted black and on the head of the box is a white skull with the letters Α and Ω.

With the construction of the new road, the road outside of the cemetary church is now a major thoroughfare for people heading to the other side of the island. Tourists with maps of Tinos crawled their cars through the throng of mourners. With so many people animatedly talking, I wondered if they knew they were passing a funeral or if they thought it was some kind of party? Finally enough cars had passed through and the people started to walk away in groups.

Iosef (Pippino) was in the middle of it all, having coordinated the funeral and all the arrangements. He was back and forth making sure everything was served. He was stoic and I hope that he finds a quiet space and the time to mourn soon. Our Condolences. May he live and remember her.

One moment we're here....

It is with great sadness that I report that Pippino's mother, Stasso, passed away today. Although she was older, she was in relatively good health. She had come to Tinos to vacation about ten days ago. This morning she wasn't feeling well and went to the Health Center where they had her medivac'd to Athens. Unfortunately, the winds were at 8 Beaufort today and the first helicopter couldn't land. They sent an army helicopter that loaded her and then unloaded her to go in search of a woman who drowned at Kionia then loaded her again and took her to Athens.

I am stunned because she was just there on her balcony. Last night, she sat with her shades and her bandanna and I thought how hip she was. She always had a kind word to say and she spoke with such a calm and restful manner. I am stunned becuase I did not sit with her enough on this visit. I kept thinking I'll see her later. How fleeting time is and how fickle circumstance. May she rest in peace.

Her family and villagers are gathered on her balcony right now in shock over the abrupt manner in which she left them and discussing and dissecting the events as they unfolded. May they find solace in their fond memories of her.

2 Beaufort

The sweat on my brow is testament to the fact that the wind has died down. Walking into the sun is not an option unless an ocean is at your feet. I have been so accustomed to the wind cooling my skin for the past three months that I never realized exactly how hot the sun is or how high the temperature has soared.

The best part about being on the island during the summer was the constant breeze or the gusty gale that would never cease. At times, I would wish that the wind would die down because it was so powerful that it would push me along.

Other times, I would wish that it would cease because it would create such havoc with the ocean. Visibility for snorkeling was non existant and the seaweed that would churn with the undertow would sneak into my bathing suit top.

Yesterday and today however Kolymbithra have been gorgeous. The water gently laps the sand. The seaweed has all settled on the bottom. Visibility with the mask is at 100%. The water is cool and refreshing and even the baby loves being in the water.

But back at home...the heat is oppressive and at night the mosquitos came out in swarms wreaking vengeance for the past three months they had been tossed about by the wind.

The happy medium does not exist. And although I love the wind, I am happy for the sweat on my brow and the mosquito bites on my skin because my beautiful beach days are rare. Don't sweat it, the wind will be back again!

Visual Stimulation

Sitting on the balcony is my favorite thing to do. I could sit here for hours with entertainment nothing more than what is going on outside. Tonight, not only were there the usual conversations with people passing by to and fro on the road but so much more.

The full moon peeped out from behind the mountain in the distance. The sky was painted with blues and purples, the colors of the falling day. Within minutes, the moon had climbed out and there it was 'like a big pizza pie' full and bright against the pale sky.

Tonight is also the night of Kolymbithra's 15th annual Beach Party. I originally planned on going but changed my mind. As the night descended and the village lights began to twinkle brightly, a strange occurrence -- I could see the road snake its way from Tripotamos to Komi. Starting at around 11 pm, the cars cruising to Kolymbithra from all over the island started to stream across the black backdrop. It is a procession that even an hour later has not let up.

Watching the parade of cars also let me witness fireworks from a village below Xombourgo. Bright hues of purple, red and orange ascended into the night sky (but not higher than Xombourgo).

At some point in the night, I said to Dad, "Look, there's a cloud hiding part of the moon." It looked odd to me, the darkness that formed a crescent on the moon. I looked up a little later to discover that the moon was covered even more, a shadow that looked like a piece of cloth covering the brightness of the moon. It's a Lunar Eclipse!

All About Me, Part Deux

The name Susanna is not one well known in these parts anymore. Growing up, many Greek people would ask me, "What's your Greek name?" and I would always answer, Susanna to their perplexion. With the exception of my Greataunt, my Grandmother's sister, and whom I am named after, I didn't know of any other Susanna. Today, I visited the graveyard in the village, and to my surprise there were numerous Susannas in yesteryear.

The way most people remember name days is by having a relative or a friend with that name and celebrating annually. Because I only show up sporadically in the summer (much preferring Easter time until now), my feast day had been forgotten. Many people came up to me the next day and wished me Χρόνια Πολλά (Many Years) saying that they didn't know or had forgotten and then they'd wink and say, "that's ok, a name day lasts for forty days".

And so, a Name Day actually lasts for two days - the actual day for people who remember and the next day for people who forget! Rena and Klairi stopped by with their families during the day to wish me well, Georgia 'Gabellina' and several others. Sometimes the day after is sweeter. You actually get to sit down and enjoy your guests.

Late afternoon, Dad went out. I put Baby to bed at around 8 and went to sit on my favorite spot on the balcony. And how does an impromptu party happen? Dad comes, Ameralis comes, then Maki and Petro, then Donado and Viki, then Pippino and Lucas. Food is brought out, the table is spread, the raki starts to flow, wine for others, and Greek music on the laptop. Great conversation, lots of laughing, and after 2 litres of raki, lots of singing. My cousin called me around midnight and asked me if that's us that could be heard all the way in Kalloni! We had a great time and the party finally broke up at around 2.

All About Me

There was much shopping to be done for the name day feast. Dad, the girls and I set out for Hora at around 9 am. We stopped by the baker and bought several fresh loaves of bread. Then we went to the supermarket where we bought yoghurt to make tzatziki, beers, wines, straggalia and other dry nuts for the raki and various other items necessary. We also stopped by Cash and Carry Palamaris and bought 22 wine glasses and 22 water glasses and 12 raki glasses. Then we stopped by the zaharoplasteio (the sweet shop).

There are various zaharoplasteia in Hora. Mesklies is the most famous. Noufara is another good one. But we went to Halari, which is a brand new one at the top of the hill. The workshop could be seen from the windows in the back of the store and there were many people at work making the scrumptious confections that can be bought in the front end of the store. We asked the owner to give us a kilo and a half of an assortment of chocolates. All of them are individually wrapped. Some have nuts on them, some are chocolate on chocolate but all are different sizes and shapes. She gave Faviana a sweet to have now and we left to go back to the village.

By this time it was around noon. Pippino came over soon after we got home to fix the tiles in the bathroom that had come undone. For several hours he undid half the floor so that he can re-ceramic tile. It was a lot of dust and a lot of banging and a lot of satisfaction afterwards to look at the completed floor. The deep clean of course lasted for hours. Doors, windows, floors, cabinets -- all were swept, washed and polished till they gleamed.

Dad in the meantime started to cook and oh, boy did he cook! Seeming effortless and with no fuss, Dad concocted scrumptuous meals of tzatziki, goat and potatoes in the oven, melitzanosalata, salads, sauteed liver, tasty chicken and a medley of other yummy dishes.

We set up two tables on the front balcony. One becaume the buffet table and the other was a place to set your glasses and plates. Now that we had plenty of glasses to choose from and we needed them all. The first to arrive was Elen at around 5. Then the rest of her family, Nicoletta and parents at around 6. Right after they left, the 'young' crowd came, Favie with his family, Nitsa and her family, Ioanna and her Aunt Eleni. At this point I get the call to come pick up my Uncle John from Kato Kleisma because he hurt his leg and can't make the walk up to Aetofolia. It was an opportune time. Everyone was leaving and I drove down to Kato Kleisma, picked him and Theia Toula up and I was back in five to ten minutes. Then the 'adult' crowd came: Elisabet and her daughters, Laura and Roza, Ameralis, Pippino, Niko and his wife Sofia (Petro's and Basili's parents) and this crowd stayed and ended the night happily after much conversation, food and drink.

The Actual Feast Day of St. Laurence

As I mentioned in previously, Lori always celebrates his Name Day the evening before as there are so many to go and see the day of. In Aetofolia, there are three Laurences and we set out to visit the first around 7:30 pm. The first to visit was Laura, Elisabet's daughter, who lives in the last house in the 'pera xorio'. As it was still early by Greek standards, she was at home with her husband, her mother and her mother's caretaker companion. Laura had petite eclairs and a fruit desert. While there, the phone rang numerous times from people who called to wish her well.





Our second visit was to Loran "Gabelli" (Now, I put that in quotes because that's not his last name. Everyone here goes by a 'paratsoyxli' (a nick name of sorts that trascends generations). He was at home with his wife and son and he had three visitors besides us. His table was loaded with various bottles of alcohol and deserts.





Our third and last visit for the evening was to Loran, Eleni and Nicoletta's father. We arrived around 9 pm and this is the time people here start going out. He was at home with his wife, 2 children, his mother and all kinds of visitors from not only our village but beyond. The phone rang constantly and there were many people coming and going. They also had all kinds of alcohol and deserts on the table. Many of the deserts were homemade.


Now, I don't normally pay attention to the particulars of a table but since my name day is tomorrow, August 11th, I have to take notes.... I don't know if anyone will show up since you don't invite anyone to come over to your Name Day feast and there's only one Susanna in the area (that's me!) but I want to be prepared just in case anyone remembers.





Dad continued on to Kalloni to wish Loran "Klapak" a happy Name Day but by this point Baby was tuckered out and Faviana not far behind. My time to put the kids to bed, Greek time to go out and party.

The Feast Day of St. Laurence

"Mommy," Faviana asks me, "what is a Name Day? Is it when they give you a new name?" I replied, "No, it's when they celebrate the one you have."


The feast day of St. Laurence is usually celebrated on August 10th but since there are so many Laurences in our surrounding villages, Lori celebrates his on the evening of August 9th.

His house is located about 4 kilometers past our village on the way to Koris tis Pirgos. Lori's house is quite nice and fairly new. It not only has a house but a beautiful stone church as well on his property. His nameday celebration is very popular and many people come to wish him well.

A normal name day is when you set up a table with sweets and alcohol and whoever remembers that it's your nameday calls or shows up at your house to wish you Χρόνια Πολλά (Many years) and you offer them the sweets and drink.

Lori's celebration is quite different. He has enough food and drink to serve the masses and actually resembles more like a wedding feast than a typical nameday celebration. The liturgy started at 7 pm at his church. Pater Rihardo was at the ready to lead the service. When the liturgy started there were a few people spilling out of the church. By the end of the liturgy there were people crowding most of the grounds. His house is situated far atop the hill and has a beautiful view of the ocean and Draconisi (Dragon Island), a small island off Kolymbithra Beach. The caterers, Mesklies, had already set up their tables and chairs along the perimeter, in the threshing pit, and parts of the drive. The tables had wine glasses and place settings and their catering tables were loaded with food. There was salad, Tinian fresh cheese, Tinian dried sausage (louza), chicken in cream, meatballs, vegetable lasagna, and various Tinian deserts like pasteli, mandolato, tiropitakia.

As soon as the liturgy ended, people sat down at the tables and the servers came by with wines, sodas, beers and various deserts as starters. As soon as the buffet table opened, a long line formed. There was plenty of food and drink and lots of conversation and merriment. The loudspeakers had 'nisiotika' (island music) playing and some people got up to dance. At one point, Dad, Theio Yianni, and Fragkisko were singing to the music. People started to drift slowly away after dinner but Lori asked them to stay for loukoumades, which were being delivered from Hora. The loukoymades were yet to arrive but we eventually left around 11 pm and there were still many people. We never did eat loukoymades but the good thing with Name Days --there's always next year!

The Who, the What, the House

When my great grandfather Ioanni hand built the house is 1888, the ground floor had two stables and α courtyard with a stone arch leading out to a garden. The front door from the road opens to these stables and also a stone staircase that winds up past the outhouse to the second floor. On the second floor, which are the living quarters, there were two bedrooms, a grande salon, a petite salon, a kichen, a front balcony and a back balcony.














My grandfather Favies built the dovecoat and plumbed the house. Between the petite salon and the kitchen they built a fake wall and that had a toilet and a sink. To take a bath you still had to step into a small cooking tub in the kitchen and have water put over you. The water from the kitchen sink led out to a trough that watered the garden.











My Dad put in a garage, a modern bathroom and kitchen, two really nice wall air conditioners and continues the regular upkeep on the house. For the past couple of days, Alket has been helping Dad spruce up the house. Alket has been whitewashing the exterior. Dad has been painting the exterior wooden shutters and frames. The house is so white now that the glare from the sun almost hurts your eyes. The shutters are so blue that they absorb the heat and soothe the ferocity of the sun.









But the renovations are never at an end. The kitchen still needs a countertop that we're waiting on. There are stones stacked up outside for paving the front and back balconies but first Dad wants to expand the back balcony and grow a grapevine canopy over one section for afternoon shade. I believe those plans have already been discussed with Donado, our favorite builder, and are slated to begin over the winter months.

My great grandfather Ioanni built a strong foundation and left something for all of us to build on.

Mnymosyna

It's a funny thing here when Sunday church services only have a handful of people in the pews and off day memorial services are full to the brim. The last Sunday service had 25 people and that included the priest and the baby in the bjorn. The memorial service in Kato Kleisma yesterday and the memorial service in Aetofolia today had more people spilling out of the respective churches than an Easter Saturday liturgy. Which leads me to beg the question, Why?


The liturgy service is the same. It takes about an hour. The time it takes place is the same, at 9 am. The church bells give off the same ding dong ding dong ding call to the villagers. So if I factor out all these variables, the only thing left is the food. And oh boy, do the memorial services have good food.


The memorial service starts at 9 am. The church proper is full of people, the men in the front, women and children in the back. Some men stand by the entrance to the church but most sit outside in the courtyard. Some men pretend they are praying and have their heads bowed but personally I think they're taking a refreshing nap. Others have no pretense and talk in low voices. Small children come in and out of the church. For memorial services, most women tend to wear darker clothes. The men wear various shades of blue. Inside the church, at the entrance, are the candles in a tall stand. Today, Faviana said that she thought she smelled popcorn. Nicoletta, the other 6 year old in the village, responded, "That's not popcorn, someone burned their hair!"


The liturgy ends around 10 am. The people holding the memorial service for their loved ones step out a couple of minutes early to go prepare the coffee. Various other women help serve the food. So what's on the menu? Greek coffee in porcelain cups. On the tray is a can of Noynoy condensed milk and sugar to add to the coffee. Next is paximadia (twice baked bread) and following that are slices of kefalotyri cheese. Then come the baked goods: small tsourekis sealed in a bag. (These the people take home to eat). Yesterday's sealed tsoureki bag also contained an almond cookie. Today's contained only the tsoureki. The almond cookie came sealed separately. There was also spinach pies, cheese pies and lots of little chocolates. Oh, and let's not forget the raki (moonshine) that flows like water here.


The men stand in clumps outside. The women are inside the church hall drinking their coffee. Our hall is small and the chairs are lined side by side against the four walls. Once everybody has their fill of food and drink and the gossip has come to a close, people start to drift away. Most of the gossip centers on who's coming, how long their staying and who's not coming and why. Some friends who have come separately and have not seen each other in a while, leave together. Others are invited back to people's homes.


So who did I see? I saw George Sklavos, a cousin of my Dad's that I absolutely adore. What a nice man. He seems so sad. I haven't seen him since his wife passed away several years ago. His daughter, Zaklyn, is here from Paris. He gave me her number so we could get together. I saw Theia Toula and Uncle John. Angela stayed in the village. The mnymosyno was for the grandmother of the Gkeka family who passed away two years ago so there were many members from that family here. And of course, all the winter villagers were there to pay their respects. Lots of people from Kato Kleisma and Kalloni. Most of the people there were over 60. There were a handful of people in their 30's and a handful of children.